Use a large flat-blade screw driver to start bending the rivet tines. A new rivet looks like “A” in illustration 4. The rivets should be long enough to go through the latch and the case with about 1/” extra sticking through the inside of the case. ![]() If you have exactly enough, chances are one will fall on the floor and roll down the heating register. Always purchase a few more rivets than you think you will need. They make good replacements since they are fairly easy to install, require no special tools, and they are very strong. Split rivets are usually original equipment on cases. Set the latch aside and drill new holes in your case using a drill bit the same diameter as your new rivets. If you decide not to use an exact replacement latch, place the new latch on the case where you want it and mark the new hole locations with the centerpunch or nail. Some times it takes a bit of searching, but it is out there. The hardware for all cases made since the ’60s is still available. Your new latch should fit exactly in the same place as the old one. Don’t take a chance on spare scrap metal scratching your instrument. Use a small screwdriver to push the rivet stems to the inside of the case. With the rivet heads removed, the latch will fall off. ![]() The bit should be a little smaller than the rivet head. This prevents the drill bit from wandering when you drill. With a center punch or a nail, punch a little dent in the center of the rivet head. Removing the rivets that hold the latch down requires drilling the heads off. This will give you plenty of room to work the rivets. Loosen about 6″ to 8″ on either side of the latch. Slide a butter knife between the padding and the shell. Next loosen the case lining around the area of the defective latch. Start your latch replacement project by emptying your case. If you forget to close a latch, it is easy to shear off the hold down. Latches are the second most abused part of instrument cases. This will flare out the pin, making it and your new handle a permanent addition to your case. Tap the hollow end of the pin with the ball end of the hammer. The block of wood absorbs some hammer shock and keeps the pin from bouncing on the floor. Place a small block of wood on the head side of the pin. Slide the pin through the loop posts and new handle. The peaned pin system is installed as follows. Tap the serrated end with a hammer until the pin is in all the way. If your handle loops use the serrated pin system, slide the smooth end of the pin through the loop posts and handle first. Next, slide a new pin through the loop posts and your new handle. The serrated pin will need a little brute force to remove while the peaned pin will fall out easily. The other has a head on one end and a slight hollow that is peaned over on the other end. Such handles have buckles on both ends and all you need to do is slide the end of force fit with one serrated end. (Illustration 3) One is a they are, all you need is what is known in the luggage trade as an emergency handle. There are two types of pins that hold handles on. First remove the pin that once went through your handle with the wire cutters and hacksaw. If your handle loops are parallel to the top and back of the case (Illustration 2), you will need to dig out the old tool box and find a pair of heavy duty wire cutters or a hacksaw and a small ball pean hammer. ![]() I highly recommend the steel reinforced handles for banjo and heavy guitar cases. There are two types of emergency handles available: standard and steel reinforced. ![]() (Illustration 1) If the new handle through the loop and back up through the buckle. If you are lucky, the handle loops on your case will be perpendicular to the top and bottom of your case. By about the third month of saying, ‘Hey, I ought to get a new handle,’ the shoe lace will break. All of us have had to use shoe laces for a case handle at one time or another. The easiest repair is replacing the handle. A few home repairs can get your case back into solid shape and keep your instrument safer than Marlin in the helicopter. With years of road use handles fall off, latches break, and cases come unglued. They are made to take abuse so your instrument doesn’t have to. Most hard shell cases sell for between $90 and $175. In fact, it is the case the instrument is stored in when you’re not playing.Ĭases are quite expensive these days. What is the best insurance for your herringbone guitar, Tubaphone banjo, or Sears and Roebuck Strad copy fiddle? It is not necessarily a rider on your home owners policy. I was wrestling with a decision on this Old-Time Herald’s instrument topic. Jim was wrestling with a giant anaconda while Marlin watched from a helicopter. A return of an animal show that we all watched as kids only because Walt Disney was on after it.
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